Partager l'article ! [2010/03 Tokyo]: SCROLL DOWN FOR ENGLISH VERSION 72 heures à Tokyo Texte & photos Thierry Vincent - Tous droits réservés - All Rig ...
[2010/03 Tokyo]
SCROLL DOWN FOR ENGLISH VERSION
72
heures à Tokyo
Texte & photos Thierry Vincent - Tous droits réservés - All Rights Reserved
C'est
énervant comme tout ne se passe pas toujours comme on voudrait. Non mais franchement, qu'est-ce qu'on a le temps de voir d'une cité comme Tokyo en 72 heures ? Trop peu choses, beaucoup trop
peu. Bon, ça serait bien que j'arrête de me pleindre ! C'est vrai quoi, c'est déjà bien d'y être allé à Tokyo. Et même si je ne suis pas resté longtemps j'ai tout de même eu le temps d'ouvrir
grands les yeux, de goûter plein de sushis, de soupes avec des nouilles dedans, et même les burgers au riz de chez Mos Burger(1) : MIAM !!! Et j'ai eu le temps de parcourir
plusieurs endroits cultes de la ville : Shibuya, Ueno Park, Akihabara, Sensoji Temple, Yokohama... En fait 72 heures à Tokyo, c'est juste un point de vue. On peut se dire que
c'était trop court… On peut aussi se dire que c'était vraiment trop bon !
Mais d'abord, qu'est-ce qu'il peut bien y
avoir de si incroyable à Tokyo ? En fait, je suis comme tout le monde : je connais déjà Tokyo. C'est la capitale du Japon, l'une des plus grandes villes du monde, certainement celle où le taux
de "technologie embarquée par habitant" est le plus élevé, ils ont tous au moins un Walkman sur eux là-bas, c'est sûr. Et puis Tokyo, je l'ai vu à la télé. Tous ceux qui
comme moi ont aujourd'hui entre 30 et 40 ans ont passé de longues heures devant Goldorak, Albator, Cobra, San Ku
Kaï, X-OR, Akira... Et puis plus tard j'ai vu des documentaires et des films. J'ai vu Lost in Translation, Ring,L'empire des
sens, Kill Bill, Crying Freeman. Je connais Takeshi Kitano (pas personnellement, hein). J'ai lu et vu Shōgun. J'ai eu une Suzuki,
une Mitsubishi et même une télé Sony ! Et puis mon appareil-photo c'est un Nikon… Alors c'est pour dire: le Japon je connais, Tokyo je
connais. Pourtant, cet endroit de la planète a toujours été pour moi l'un des plus attractifs mystères qui soit. Mon moi-voyageur a toujours voulu voir-le-Japon-pour-de-vrai, et en tout premier
lieu : Tokyo !
Tokyo, anciennement appelée Edo ou Yedo, a un passé historique fascinant
fait de samuraïs, de ninjas, de geishas, d'intrigues politiques et de grandes batailles militaires. Tout aussi fascinants sont les protocoles de la vie quotidienne japonaise et ses coutumes
alimentaires radicalement différentes de nos habitudes occidentales.
Mais une des première choses qui frappent à
Tokyo c'est le poids des statistiques. En 2010, Tokyo serait la plus grande ville du monde(2), sa densité de population est de plus de 5.900 habitants par km2... Et ça
saute aux yeux ! A Tokyo, il y a foule partout et tout le temps. Regarder les milliers de passants qui attendent bien disciplinés que le petit bonhomme passe au vert puis les voir se ruer à
travers le monumental passage piéton de Shibuya Scramble Crossing est un spectacle digne d'une scène de bataille de fantassins de Barry Lyndon - ou
peut-être du Seigneur des Anneaux mais en plus calme et avec beaucoup plus de mini-jupes et de masques anti-poussière sur le nez.
Tokyo
c'est grand, très grand. Le sillonner en voiture, en train, le traverser ou en faire le tour sur l'une des innombrables freeways qui ceinturent la ville c'est contempler des dizaines de
milliers de visages et du béton à perte de vue. Mais Tokyo ce
n'est pas que des buildings vitrés, des écrans géants et des personnages de manga qui traversent la rues. C'est aussi une ville où l'on a su préserver beaucoup d'aspects
traditionnels.
Le quartier d'Asakusa recèle le temple
Sensoji, ce temple Bouddhiste est le plus ancien de Tokyo. Sa fondation remonte à 645 après qu'une statue de Bouddha ait été trouvée dans la rivière Sumida.
Aujourd'hui Sensō-ji est l'un des endroits les plus visités de Tokyo. L'on y vient pour y brûler des bâtons d'encens et prier Bouddha ou simplement pour voir ce que
l'avenir nous réserve. Deux pagodes à l'entrée du temple sont d'ailleurs réservée à cette pratique : on saisi un boîtier métallique que l'on secoue, on en extrait une tige de bois sur
laquelle figure un caractère japonais, ce caractère nous renvoi à un mur de tiroir, il suffit alors de trouver le bon tiroir (celui sur lequel figure le même caractère, ça a l'air simple
comme ça…) et de l'ouvrir pour y récupérer une petite feuille de papier sur laquelle est inscrite une prédiction. Si la prédiction est bonne on remercie Bouddha et on la garde, sinon c'est
pas grave - on se dit que c'est juste le Karma, on plie la feuille, on la noue sur une tige métallique et on l'oublie à tous vents. Simple, non ? Après une telle (més)aventure,
comme c'est toujours un peu anxiogène de découvrir son propre avenir - c'est aussi assez flippant de savoir qu'il est déjà écrit et imprimé... Bref après tant de stress il n'y a rien de plus
relaxant que de contempler un cerisier en fleur.
Prenons un rickshaw : direction Ueno Park !
Comment ça non ?! Ha bon. Il semblerait que les rickshaws d'Asakusa ne sortent pas du quartier. Ils ne jouent plus le rôle de taxi depuis longtemps. Ils se sont mués en guides touristiques qui
vous font parcourir le quartier à la force du mollet tout en vous abreuvant de commentaires historiques. Le moins qu'on puisse dire c'est qu'ils ont du
souffle.
Tant pis, on prendra le métro. Direction Ueno Park ! Ueno Onshi Kōen, le "Parc Ueno, cadeau impérial" date de 1924 et a été construit sur un territoire donné à la ville par l'empereur Taishō. Au printemps le parc est très fréquenté par de nombreux locaux ainsi que par les touristes étrangers (comme moi) qui viennent admirer Sakura (comme moi), la floraison des cerisers du Japon. Durant cette période le parc est littéralement bondé et le week end ses plus larges allées accueillent de gigantesques pique-niques dont l'organisation est toute japonaise, c'est à dire parfaite.
Tokyo est une ville merveilleuse. Comme beaucoup je ne suis pas fan des bains de foule mais là ça ne compte pas tellement tout le monde se comporte poliment et est prèt à vous aider à la moindre solicitation (ce qui n'est peut-être pas toujours vrai mais là, en trois jours c'est l'impression que j'ai eu). La ville est superbe, que ce soit dans ses aspects les plus modernes comme dans les plus traditionnels. Il y a tant de choses à y voir, tant de choses à y faire, tout y est si différent et pourtant si facile d'accès... Que, oui, 72 heures c'était beaucoup trop court. Mais quelles 72 heures !!!
(1) http://www.mos.co.jp/index.php
(2) http://www.populationdata.net/index2.php?option=palmares&rid=4&nom=grandes-villes
--
ENGLISH VERSION
Japan - Episode 3
72 hours in Tokyo (English Version)
Text & Photos Thierry Vincent - All Rights Reserved - Tous droits réservés
It's
annoying as everything does not always go as one would expect. No, but frankly, what can one
see of a city like Tokyo in 72 hours? Not enough, way not. Jee! I think I should stop complaining like that! At least I have been to Tokyo, no? And even if I did not stay long I still had time to
open wide my big European eyes, taste plenty of sushis, noodle soups, and even get some Mos-Burgers (1): YUM! And I even had time to visit several famous places like Shibuya, Ueno Park,
Akihabara, Sensoji Temple, Yokohama ... In fact 72 hours in Tokyo is not really a period of time, it's merely a point of view. Afterwards, one may say that it was too short ... or too
good!
And anyway, what can be so amazing about Tokyo? In fact, I'm like everyone, I already know Tokyo. It is the capital of Japan, one of the largest cities in
the world, certainly one where the rate of "embedded technology per person" is the highest; everyone carries at the very least a Walkman there, for sure. Besides, I saw Tokyo on TV many
times. Anyone like me who is now between 30 and 40 years have spent long hours in front of Grendizer, Captain Harlock,
Cobra, San Ku Kai, X-OR, Akira ... And then later I saw
documentaries and films. I saw Lost in Translation, Ring, The Empire of the senses, Kill Bill, Crying
Freeman. I know Takeshi Kitano (not personally, eh). I have read and watched
Shogun. I have had
a Suzuki, a Mitsubishi and even a Sony
TV and VCR set! And then my camera is a Nikon ... So no need to say: I know Japan and I know Tokyo.
However, this part of the world has always been for me one of the most attractive mysteries. The little-curious-me up in my head always wanted to see-Japan-for-real, and in the first place:
Tokyo!
Tokyo, formerly known as Edo or Yedo, bares a fascinating history, populated with samurais, ninjas, geishas, political intrigues and great military battles. Equally fascinating are the protocols of Japanese daily life and eating habits radically different from our Western ones. But one of the first things that one notices in Tokyo is the weight of statistics. In 2010, Tokyo is largest city in the world (2), its population density is more than 5,900 inhabitants per km2 ... And it is obvious! In Tokyo, every place is crowded at any time. Watch the thousands of bystanders waiting well disciplined as the little for the crossing light to turn green and then see them rushing through the monumental walkway at Shibuya Scramble Crossing is a spectacle worthy of a battlefield scene from Barry Lyndon - or perhaps from the Lord of the Rings but much quieter and with much more mini-skirts and dust masks.
Tokyo is big, huge. To go through it by car, train, or to go around one of the many freeways that surround the city takes one to an exotic journey, crossing tens of thousands of faces, walking, driving, sitting, waiting, eating, chatting, living in the biggest concrete jungle of the world. But Tokyo is not just made of glass skyscrapers, giant video screens and manga characters roaming in the streets. It is also a city where one has preserved many traditional aspects.
The Asakusa area houses Sensoji Temple, this Buddhist temple is the oldest in Tokyo. Its foundation dates back to 645 after a statue of Buddha was found in the Sumida River. Today Sensō-ji is one of the most visited touristic and religious places in Tokyo. There people come to burn incent sticks and pray to Buddha; or simply to see what the future holds. Two pagodas at the entrance of the temple are dedicated to this practice: you just have to grab a metal box and shake it, extract a wooden stick on which a Japanese character is carved, the character indicates, on a wall of drawers which one to open (the one showing the same character off course) then the drawer delivers a small sheet of paper on which is inscribed a prediction about your future. If the prediction is good, just thank Buddha and keeps the paper; if the prediction is not good - well it's just karma, then you have to fold the sheet and tie it to a metal rod, leave it to the wind and forget about it. So simple. After such a (mis)adventure, as there is always a little anxiety into discovering your own future - and it is also quite scary to know that your all life is already all written and printed ... So, after so much of stress there is nothing more relaxing than watching a good old Japanese cherry blossom.
Let's ask a rickshaw puller to take us to Ueno Park! What? No? Haaa OK. It seems that the Asakusa rickshaws do not leave the neighborhood. They no longer
play the role of taxi. They have turned into tourist guides who take you through the area using the force of the calf while delivering a profusion of historical details. The least I can say is
that they are quite in shape; but they will not take us to Ueno.
Too bad, we'll take the subway. Ueno Onshi Koen, the "Ueno Imperial Gift Park" was built in 1924 on a land given to the city by the Emperor Taisho. In spring the park is frequented by many locals as well as foreign tourists (like me) who come to admire Sakura (like me), the Japanese cherry tree flowers blossom. During this period, the park is literally packed. The weekends its wider aisles welcome huge picnics that are organized in a rather Japanese fashion, that is to say: perfect.
Tokyo is a wonderful city. Like many I do not fancy much long walks among a huge crowd but there it does not matter. At least that time it did not. The city is beautiful, whether in its most modern looks, as in its traditional ones. There are so many things to see, so much to do there, everything is so different and yet so easy to access ... I must admit that, yes, 72 hours was way too short. But what beautiful 72 hours!
(1) http://www.mos.co.jp/index.php
(2) http://www.populationdata.net/index2.php?option=palmares&rid=4&nom=grandes-villes
And anyway, what can be so amazing about Tokyo? In fact, I'm like everyone, I already know Tokyo. It is the capital of Japan, one of the largest cities in
the world, certainly one where the rate of "embedded technology per person" is the highest; everyone carries at the very least a Walkman there, for sure. Besides, I saw Tokyo on TV many
times. Anyone like me who is now between 30 and 40 years have spent long hours in front of Grendizer, Captain Harlock,
Cobra, San Ku Kai, X-OR, Akira ... And then later I saw
documentaries and films. I saw Lost in Translation, Ring, The Empire of the senses, Kill Bill, Crying
Freeman. I know Takeshi Kitano (not personally, eh). I have read and watched
Shogun. I have had
a Suzuki, a Mitsubishi and even a Sony
TV and VCR set! And then my camera is a Nikon ... So no need to say: I know Japan and I know Tokyo.
However, this part of the world has always been for me one of the most attractive mysteries. The little-curious-me up in my head always wanted to see-Japan-for-real, and in the first place:
Tokyo!Tokyo, formerly known as Edo or Yedo, bares a fascinating history, populated with samurais, ninjas, geishas, political intrigues and great military battles. Equally fascinating are the protocols of Japanese daily life and eating habits radically different from our Western ones. But one of the first things that one notices in Tokyo is the weight of statistics. In 2010, Tokyo is largest city in the world (2), its population density is more than 5,900 inhabitants per km2 ... And it is obvious! In Tokyo, every place is crowded at any time. Watch the thousands of bystanders waiting well disciplined as the little for the crossing light to turn green and then see them rushing through the monumental walkway at Shibuya Scramble Crossing is a spectacle worthy of a battlefield scene from Barry Lyndon - or perhaps from the Lord of the Rings but much quieter and with much more mini-skirts and dust masks.
Tokyo is big, huge. To go through it by car, train, or to go around one of the many freeways that surround the city takes one to an exotic journey, crossing tens of thousands of faces, walking, driving, sitting, waiting, eating, chatting, living in the biggest concrete jungle of the world. But Tokyo is not just made of glass skyscrapers, giant video screens and manga characters roaming in the streets. It is also a city where one has preserved many traditional aspects.
The Asakusa area houses Sensoji Temple, this Buddhist temple is the oldest in Tokyo. Its foundation dates back to 645 after a statue of Buddha was found in the Sumida River. Today Sensō-ji is one of the most visited touristic and religious places in Tokyo. There people come to burn incent sticks and pray to Buddha; or simply to see what the future holds. Two pagodas at the entrance of the temple are dedicated to this practice: you just have to grab a metal box and shake it, extract a wooden stick on which a Japanese character is carved, the character indicates, on a wall of drawers which one to open (the one showing the same character off course) then the drawer delivers a small sheet of paper on which is inscribed a prediction about your future. If the prediction is good, just thank Buddha and keeps the paper; if the prediction is not good - well it's just karma, then you have to fold the sheet and tie it to a metal rod, leave it to the wind and forget about it. So simple. After such a (mis)adventure, as there is always a little anxiety into discovering your own future - and it is also quite scary to know that your all life is already all written and printed ... So, after so much of stress there is nothing more relaxing than watching a good old Japanese cherry blossom.
Let's ask a rickshaw puller to take us to Ueno Park! What? No? Haaa OK. It seems that the Asakusa rickshaws do not leave the neighborhood. They no longer
play the role of taxi. They have turned into tourist guides who take you through the area using the force of the calf while delivering a profusion of historical details. The least I can say is
that they are quite in shape; but they will not take us to Ueno.Too bad, we'll take the subway. Ueno Onshi Koen, the "Ueno Imperial Gift Park" was built in 1924 on a land given to the city by the Emperor Taisho. In spring the park is frequented by many locals as well as foreign tourists (like me) who come to admire Sakura (like me), the Japanese cherry tree flowers blossom. During this period, the park is literally packed. The weekends its wider aisles welcome huge picnics that are organized in a rather Japanese fashion, that is to say: perfect.
Tokyo is a wonderful city. Like many I do not fancy much long walks among a huge crowd but there it does not matter. At least that time it did not. The city is beautiful, whether in its most modern looks, as in its traditional ones. There are so many things to see, so much to do there, everything is so different and yet so easy to access ... I must admit that, yes, 72 hours was way too short. But what beautiful 72 hours!
(1) http://www.mos.co.jp/index.php
(2) http://www.populationdata.net/index2.php?option=palmares&rid=4&nom=grandes-villes
